Your motorcycle's drive chain works in an open environment, constantly exposed to road dust, mud, and water. As you ride, road grit gets trapped in the sticky chain lube, creating an abrasive grinding paste. This paste wears down the chain rollers, pins, and sprocket teeth. Neglecting chain care causes the chain to stretch, creates a loud metallic slapping noise, lowers fuel efficiency, and can even cause the chain to snap mid-ride, which can lock the rear wheel and cause a serious accident.
O-Ring vs. Non-O-Ring Chains: What You Need to Know
Most modern motorcycles above 120cc use O-ring or X-ring chains. These chains have rubber seals sandwiched between the metal plates to trap factory grease inside the chain pins while keeping water out. Standard commuter bikes (like the Hero Splendor) often use non-O-ring chains enclosed inside a full metal cover. Knowing this is important because harsh solvents like petrol or thinners will dissolve and crack the rubber O-rings, leading to rapid dry wear. Always use a dedicated, O-ring safe cleaner spray or clean kerosene for maintenance.
Step 1: Deep Cleaning the Chain
First, secure your bike on the center stand or a paddock stand. Ensure the engine is switched off and the transmission is in neutral (never run the engine in gear while cleaning the chain manually, as this can catch your fingers between the chain and sprocket). Spray a generous amount of chain cleaner (like Motul C1 or Kangaroo) onto the chain rollers. Let it soak for 3 to 5 minutes to break down the old, crusty grease. Use a specialized three-sided chain cleaning brush to scrub off the accumulated mud and dirt from all angles. Spray a final light coat to flush the dirt off, then wipe the chain completely dry using an old microfibre cloth.
Step 2: Applying the Chain Lube
With the chain dry, spin the rear wheel slowly by hand. Aim the nozzle of your chain lube spray (like Motul C2 or Castrol Chain Spray) at the inner side of the chain—specifically on the inner and outer link plates where the rubber O-rings reside, and on the rollers. Do not spray the outer surface of the chain, as this will only sling off onto your rear tyre and attract dirt. Once applied, let the lubricant dry for at least 20 to 30 minutes. This allows the solvents inside the spray to evaporate, leaving behind a sticky, water-resistant lubrication film.
Step 3: Checking and Adjusting Chain Tension
A properly adjusted chain should have about 25mm to 35mm of vertical slack at its tightest point (check the swingarm sticker for manufacturer specifications). If the chain is sagging too much, it will slap against the swingarm cover. If it is too tight, it will strain the gearbox output shaft and cause vibration:
- Loosen the main rear wheel axle nut using a ring spanner.
- Turn the chain tensioner adjusting bolts on both sides of the swingarm clockwise by equal amounts (use the alignment marks on the swingarm to keep the wheel straight).
- Ensure the wheel is aligned, verify the slack is within 30mm, and torque the main axle nut back to specifications.
- Check the sprockets: if the teeth are pointed like 'shark fins' or worn thin, the entire chain sprocket kit needs immediate replacement.
If you don't have the tools or paddock stand at home, don't worry. You can book a quick doorstep general maintenance package with FixWheel, and our mechanic will adjust, clean, and lubricate your chain in minutes.